Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
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Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
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Description
The first pitch is 5.11- (70 m rope required for the rap) to the same belay stance as Rastafari. The second pitch goes right at 5.10-. The left bolt line is the second pitch of Rastafari, retroed (with permission of FA party) at 5.10.
Location
The climb is the first left of Occasional Freshman and right of Rastafari(the high bolt). Follow the painted bolts.
Protection
The first pitch needs a few pieces (small to medium wires and cams). The second pitch is entirely bolts.
Actually the first ascent party of Rastafari wasn't contacted...at least no one asked me... but I say way to go! That second pitch was a nightmare. To who ever put in the bolts, thanks.
I belive that they talked to Johnny M, so perhapse, "part of the FA party" would have been a better comment as far retroing the second pitch of rastafari goes.
Not sure what any of that (above) has to do with this route description...?
This line is really good - Thanks Mark and Karl ! I'd say it's .11 for sure...with a pack on. I don't think you need any gear except for maybe a yellow C3 (yellow TCU) about half way up. I wondered if I was going to run out of draws and started back cleaning...then ahhh, the anchors appeared ! Stellar climbing for anyone climbing at the grade.
Descent is an easy walk off from the top of Redeemer. So just follow the ridge back to the SE and downclimb.