Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
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Description
This route will definitely round out your day if hanging out at Estrellita.
Approach: From Estrellita and Clean Sweep, go down hill to the West about 10m and then head up the gully to your right for about 30m. You'll see a bolted line that marks the beginning of Shockwave.
Cruise the left side of the arete, then cross over it to gain the right-facing dihedral. Move left at the small overhang where the dihedral ends (technical crux(well protected)). Easy to find medium sized gear (up to #1 Camalot max) protects the natural line trending leftward to the midway anchors. Then, fire up through some great face climbing that is pretty much standard for the same strike and dip of the immediate area climbing to a 2 BA.
You can do this 40 m route as a single pitch, but you'll need to do two raps by using the midway anchor in order to get your draws down low, even if you have a single 70m rope. Or, go Euro and carry two 50m ropes !
Protection
15 draws and a couple of TCUs and medium wires if you want to supplement the bolts. Two rap anchors are in-situ, so you can take a single rope to do the one really long pitch.
I only found 9 bolts on this route. There was about a 50 foot runout between the 4th bolt after the dihedral crux and the mid rap station, so might want to take some extra pro for this section. While the bottom half was dirty and loose the top half was very enjoyable.
Ya mon - you're right...there's only 9 bolts, but you might want the draws for gear, eh? I'd make 4-5 draws shoulder length.
There's one bolt that I stripped below the midway anchors as I was contemplating putting up another line straight up to the anchors, but decided against it.
Not sure where you found it dirty on the bottom aside from the typical lichen. There's a platform at the ground belay now as well as a good trail getting to the climb.
Wow, misread that. I figured with 15 bolts in a 170 feet I was good to go without any supplemental gear, haha. Fortunately the climbing was easy and the runout not too stressful.
The dirty part was through the crux, where I removed several holds from the wall, before finding the solid ones.
One possible reason for the looseness that Disturbing comments on is the nature in which the route was put up. Marc bolted the upper portion from the top down, the well bolted portion above the midway anchor. Then on another day Marc, Chris Eckstien and I went back and I lead from the ground up to that midway anchor just on gear, then Marc went up and drilled a few bolts that I had definitely wanted and did some brushing. Finally Marc and Chris climbed the route, so I've never done the whole route, but it seems likely that the top half was cleaned better while it was going up or perhaps that it was just cleaner to begin with being a face and not a corner system.
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