Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Wendy, just before starting to Simul the fourth cl...
Description
The long NW ridge of the Thumb is one of the great long ridge routes in the Sandias, getting the climber up on a tremendous exposed ridge with great views of Upper La Cueva Canyon to the left and the Rio Grande valley to the right.
(1-2) From the 'rope-up' ledge 150' up the NW ridge, ascend 2 pitches of 5.4-5.5 cracks beginning on the arete, then moving to its left (you could stay directly on the arete at 5.7 climbing and more exposure). (3) A steeper section with an old ring piton marks the 3rd (crux) pitch. A short series of balance moves gets one past the crux section, continue up easier cracks left of the arete. (4) Traverse to the right side of the arete, then climb up a short slab section, ascend 40' of chimney to a belay and easier ground. (5-8) Above the chimney, 1000' of scrambling up mostly 3rd class, with occasional 4th class moves remains, with precipitous drops to enjoy on either side.
Generally, multiple variations are possible on the 5th class pitches, with the easiest passage being marked by the lack of 'rock lettuce'. (If someone wants to write a more elaborate description, I'd be happy to let them..)
Although one guidebook warns to allow a full day for this climb, a competent party comfortable simulclimbing or soloing on easier terrain will be able to complete this route in a few hours. Retreat from this route would be time- and gear-consuming; in most instances, continuing over the top and down the standard SE Ridge descent would be recommended.
Location
The Thumb is the prominent twin summited rock south of the La Luz Trail; the NW ridge ascents the right skyline as viewed from the upper parts of the La Luz. Hike down the La Luz ~1hr to the last West facing switchback before the trail crosses from the S to the N side of La Cueva Canyon. Follow a small trail west (if you cross some rusty water pipes in the first 30', you're at the right place) and ascend to a large ledge and tree directly on the NW ridge, where the route begins. A direct start 150' lower is possible as well.
Protection
Standard Sandia rack, up to 3". Long runners are recommended to minimize rope drag. An ancient ring-pin protects the crux move (this can be backed up with gear); otherwise, I didn't see any metal.
The Thumb
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