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Hail Peak Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Hail Peak

L › R R › L A › Z

	Chockstone Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	North Ramp T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Poker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	West Face Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Windy Ridge T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

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Elevation:	9,660 ft
GPS:	35.1981, -106.4455 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Bill Lawry on Sep 24, 2007
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Description

Name's origin: Reed Cundiff ... and John Wells got caught in a hail storm doing this in 1962 or thereabouts. According to Reed, "We were rather prosaic in naming peaks and routes back then."

Another worthy name would be " 'shwhack Peak". There may not be any way to approach its' climbs without at least an hour of bushwhacking. Recommended a reconnaissance hike or two to dial in the approach / deproach.

The summit of Hail Peak stands about 1000 feet in elevation below the Sandia Crest summit. The two are separated by a deep notch off the north end of Hail Peak. Generally speaking, Hail Peak resembles a giant fin with its length aligned roughly north-south and the highest point near the north end. The summit affords a unique and broad view of Domingo Baca Canyon and surrounding crags including Jaw Bone in the ~SE, Alioth in the ~NE, The Thumb in the ~NW, and Ego Boost in the ~W.

Getting There

Given the location of Hail Peak, it may well be that any of several approaches are equivalent in terms of time off of maintained trails. The route of interest may be the deciding factor. General options include: down Echo Canyon from the junction of the La Luz Trail and the Crest Spur Trail; up Domingo Baca Canyon from Albuquerque; down a gully in a more direct line between Hail Peak and the La Luz Trail. Doing these approaches before the day of a climb can be a time saver.

For any approach, use care around boulders. It may not be obvious that they are only precariously at rest. In fact, some are ankle breakers or worse as told by history. The area surrounding Hail Peak sees little foot traffic.

Summit Descents

Options for descending from Hail Peak summit are described in sections below. Hill's guide, 3rd edition, is mistaken or perhaps misleading about the length of the second rap down the west face.

West Face Descent

Two ropes needed for the second rappel.

This rap descent can be previewed from the highest point of the approach that traverses the base of the west face; see topo on this picture. This could be a more efficient way down from the southern summit ridge than traversing to the north and downclimbing the North Ramp route.

After climbing a southerly route such as Windy Ridge or Chockstone Chimney and reaching the big tree set back from the cliff edge:

Scramble 3rd, 4th and low 5th class to the summit ridge.
Hike the summit ridge north about 30 yards to a notch with a very wide rock-lined gully to the left or west. 300 feet down the gully is a very large tree clearly visible in the very wide gully.
Scramble down into the gully - rightward at first and then leftward - for about 30 feet to a smaller tree tucked back skier's left on an ample ledge. The very top of the tall tree still has some greenery (2023). Some may want to belay this exposed scramble.
Rap from the tree into the gully - a single 60m rope is sufficient.
Continue down the gully passing skier's right of the very large tree to a smaller tree where the west face drops steeply away.
Rap roughly 170 feet to a broad dirt ledge. Hill's guide mistakenly lists this as a 110 foot rap. Or, perhaps, still-strong climbers could downclimb after a 110 foot rap.
Hike ~15 feet out from the west face towards a ledge-y prominence and find obvious scramble down on skier's right.
Scramble down and then mostly traverse skier's right - 75 feet? - until dropping 10 feet onto a very broad ledge.
Hike skier's right until finding a wide but hidden tree-filled gully with a uniquely slabby bottom. This is the "Bowling Alley" in Hill's guide.
Rap or scramble down the Bowling Alley.

Once down the Bowling Alley, bushwhacking straight down will shortly reaches where the approach below the west face crosses a brushy saddle.

Rap / Down-Climb North Ramp Route

Only 1 rope needed.

At the north summit, head north and negotiate a ~20 foot down climb. Not much further north along the ridge, a short fourth class down climb to the northeast leads to a tree with rap slings. Tree and slings are visible before this down climb.
Rap 90' from tree to top of ramp.
Scramble down the North Ramp. When it gets quite steep, one can go down at far skiers right until impassable and then do one short rap from center; or might be able to scramble from skiers left.