Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
After rapping to the base of the Yucca Flower Tower, head to the top of the pillar at your right (not the gully!). The route begins just at the top of this pillar.
Pitch 1 (80'): Head up the obvious crack though a small roof, continuing through a corner system. Below another roof, clip a piton, and move through some awkward roof moves. Just up and left of the crux, find the bolted belay (5.10b).
Pitch 2+3: Head straight up a fine looking finger crack (5.9+), after which you can either stop at a convenient belay ledge and make the climb 4 pitches, or continue up easy low angle climbing to the anchors on the rappel block.
Pitch 4: (We did not do this exit pitch, we went to the first rappel and exited at Great Escape, a MUCH nicer variation!) The original line climbs up and to the left of a right facing corner and to the top (5.4).
Protection
Double set to #1 Camalot, with 1 #2, and nuts and slings (will want some to avoid rope drag) will suffice.
did Var start to south for extra pitch. Is there a route comming up right 15m or so of the 10 B lots of lichen down low.. 11- or so little scary but took pro.
if standing on base of yucca flower look right and low at bottom of gully climb face that starts with a handle bar right facing lay back. climb up to buldge with loosy right facing overhang to gaston like placement red C3 TCU and gray c3 TCU for pro rps and # 2 camalot also protect crux.
could take this straight up but decided to traverse left onto the yucca ledge and brought up second
looking for info this would be more direct to 10C pitch
Also out right excellent looking arete.with pro..??
Yucca Flower Tower
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