Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
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Description
The route is a logical top out for parties looking for a moderate way to climb out after summiting the Bush Shark Spire. From the high point in the notch behind the Bush Shark Spire down climb to the right a couple of body lengths into a chimney. Continue traversing R for about 20 ft to the base of a short steep corner under the main crack system. Do a couple steep tricky moves to get up into the crack system. Once in the crack/corner follow it up til it ends about 180ft. Best to belay here and do a second shorter pitch to the top. The crux comes in the form of physical Yosemite style crack climbing. This route is unusual in the Sandias because it follows a continuous crack system and ends with a pretty cool chimney section. Unfortunately the route gets overgrown due to neglect.
Location
The route starts out of the notch between the Bush Shark Spire and the Bush Shark Wall. Top out and belay off a large tree at the rim. Scramble off to the east to the top of the formation.
Protection
There is no fixed gear and a standard rack to 3" or 4" will suffice.
Thanks John for bringing back an old classic. During the traverse right from the notch (the way I have done this route) there is a pin high in a dihedral that can be used to protect the traverse (it has been there since at least 1990). I find I had to climb up to clip it, step back down and complete the traverse. I have always traversed considerably further right - ending near your new 2 bolt anchor for Ghost Rider, then climbing the flakes and crack up the final dihedral LEFT of your newly bolted line.... perhaps we are on different routes since you suggest only a few body lengths in your description of Garden Party. I always thought Banana Split (Hill description) was the closer of the 2 routes.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Feb 25, 2008 rating: 5.9
When I did this... From the notch, I traversed right to the fixed piton, and then followed crack systems generally straight up and a little left from the piton. I remember a slick wide crack section- "Yosemite style liebacking". After most of the rope (180'), I reached a belay in an alcove behind a big block (in the chimney behind the block, wide enough to fit in). A shorter pitch went from there to the top, passing the block on the left.. It worked, was about 5.9, pretty fun. For whatever that's worth. I thought I was on Garden Party, but I was using the same book as everyone else... who knows.
It's too bad this climb isn't in the new guidebook. It's much more fun than hiking out Echo Canyon after climbing Bush Shark.
It sounds like George was on Garden party from his description. Alam, it seems you were quite far to the right of Garden party. The belay for Ghost Rider must be 40ft right of where GP goes straight up. I'm glad people are doing this route. A few years ago I cleaned and pruned the route to encourage traffic but as of last spring it had become overgrown again. Next time I'm over there I'll do some more cleaning and bring a camera and post a picture here.
Bush Shark Area
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