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Bush Shark Area
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Ghost Rider 

5.10 PG13

   
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FA: Marc Beverly
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
Views: 215 page views

Submitted By: Marc Beverly on Sep 14, 2007


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Description 

Approach as for Hammerhead and Bush Shark Spire Route. This climb is located 10m right of the Bush Shark Gully and 3-4m left of the toe of the Westron Wynde Wall formation.

P-1: A small crack that takes a pin or a small TCU (cruxy) gains an easy left trending ramp to a bolted anchor.

P-2: Cruise 5.8 face climbing to a 5.9 crux at a bouldery crack. Aim for the large pine tree on a ledge (the only on there) to a 2 bolt anchor.

P-3: A long 50+m pitch starts with several bolts and through the crux. Persevere to ledgy and well protected climbing that tops the wall out at a nice tree to belay from.


Location 

Bush Shark Spire


Protection 

Wires, TCUs, Camalots to #3, 8-10 alpine draws, several quick draws.



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By Alam
Aug 26, 2007

Ghost Rider - 10a, Another great route, with very good rock.

Pitch 1 - the seam starts about 60 feet to the left of where bush shark spire joins the main wall (not 60 feet to the left of the bush shark start). The start is really at the toe of the route. With good eyes you can see the 2 bolts at the first belay from the ground.

Pitch 2 - work up right and clip a bolt and then work staright up on the face past assorted bolts.

Pitch 2 variation - clip first bolt, and then trend left on ramp system using natural gear until about 40 feet below ledge with big tree. At this point you will find a finger hand crack that goes staright up 40 feet, stepping RIGHT at the final 5 feet to gain the large ledge and the 2 bolt belay.

Historical note - this belay point is the same one we always used for the final pitch of garden party - now you have 2 bolts to clip and do not need to rig gear at the tree of the pillar. Garden party traverses in from the left from the bush shark spire notch (after finishing bush shark soire route), through grungy rock and 1 lone pin ( a pitch to avoid anyways). While the 3rd pitch of ghost rider follows the fins and bolts through the small roof directly above the belay (great pitch!), garden party follows the flakes and face climbing 15 - 20 feet to the left of the first 2 bolts on Ghost Rider, and then continues angling left to the summit.

By Marc Beverly
From: New Mexico
May 7, 2009

Sorry about the new bolted belay. I put this up on rope solo at night. Thanks for the good feedback, Alam !