Blood In The Water 

FA:  Lee Brinkerhoff and Marc Beverly New Route:  Yes Type:  Sport, Alpine Consensus:  5.12+ [details] Length:  2 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II Views: 205 page views Submitted By: Marc Beverly on Sep 14, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Approach: Find the Yucca Flower Towers and go towards to NW for 30m to gain the prominent ridge top North of the Bush Shark Spire. Rap bolts are somewhat clandestine. You will need to leave a cordalette to rap off trending climber's left to the next station with a good stance. The stance is hard to see until you're about 10m away.

Next, use a 70m rope doubled to rap in to the Bush Shark Notch, hanging some directional draws on the route as you rap in. Use a few small cams for the belayer to keep them secured into the notch for a descent belay stance.

17 bolts takes you through a double crux climb that, aside from the midway rest stance, is sustained and somewhat harder since the FFA since a few key features have been broken off.

The route has gotten progressively harder since the FFA as some of the key holds have broken. It still goes for sure and is a worthy prize to finish this line with a smile.

Protection 

a few cams and wires to get you out off the last pitch and to set a nice belay stance for your belayer in the notch.