Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Lee on the FFA of the incomparable Hammerhead. JMB...
Keeping with the theme names of the area, Hammerhead starts to the right of Bush Shark Spire Route and left of the Bush Shark Gully.
P-1: Keeping the riff-raff off, the heady start follows the bolted line up and to the right to the gully for a quick rest. Then cruise out left and up over bulging terrain to the large red overhang where you'll traverse nearly straight left to the hidden but nice belay stance.
P-2: A fixed nut should start you off on the gently overhanging and sustained left-trending fissure that eventually opens up and grants you some good gear placements. Clean falls may be enjoyed in a very aesthetic venue.
Rap the route or down climb to the Bush Shark Spire Route rap (two sets of bolted anchors to the ground) from the notch. Or, better yet, climb Blood In The Water, 5.12c 17 bolts, and another easier trad pitch (5.8) after that to gain the top rap anchor station.
Depending on who you talk to the first pitch is anywhere from 5.11 to 5.12- and the second pitch is 5.11+ to 5.12. That said I think the first pitch is 5.11c/d and the second is 5.12a and probably the most continuously steep 5.12- in the range. I do have a concern about the 1st pitch, when I was bolting this about 2/3 of the way up you climb into a small left facing dihedral formed by a block on your right, this block seemed like it would be hollow but I could not get it to budge, it seems to me the last time I was up there as if it had actually gotten looser, the route could be redirected slightly left onto the arete at this point and I don't think it would be any harder and would need 1 or 2 bolts and of course pull the one in the dihedral. Just looking for input from others that have been on it and to say if anyone gets real anxious to feel free to do this as I'm not sure when I'll be able to get out and do it myself if people think this is the right thing to do.
Bush Shark Area
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