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Techweeny Buttress
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Crackula 

Crackula 

5.8

   

FA: Mark Leonard, David Dunlap, 1986
Type: Trad, Alpine
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 180 feet
Season: spring through fall
Views: 347 page views

Submitted By: Chuck and Tamara on Jan 1, 2007


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Tamara leaving P1 belay alcove. Some climbers hea...


Description 

Look for the obvious left facing corner, just north of the clean face.

P1: (5.8) Climbs intermittent cracks to a dihedral, followed by a slight bulge. Continue on easy ground and over a few ledges. Belay at a large ledge below a wide crack. (Large gear needed for the belay, #4 Camelot comes in handy, but not necessary)

P2: (5.8) Climb up the wide crack, til its possible to step right onto the face. Continue up and right to the corner of a small roof. Use a short crack to pull around the roof and continue up through intermittent cracks and face to the top of the formation.


Location 

Route starts in a obvious dihedral at the left end of Techweeny Buttress


Protection 

Small rack to a #4 Camalot (for P1 belay).



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Tamara moving through the routes crux on P2

Tamara moving through the routes crux on P2


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By Marc Beverly
Sep 21, 2007

The variation goes up and left where the belay is. The other option is do the variation in one long 60m pitch and leave the #4 Camalot behind.

By Ryan Smyth
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 30, 2008

I think we may have got off route on the 2nd pitch on this climb, we worked left up easy ground to a dihedral with a pretty hard move just below a piton and continued up easier gound to the top. The hard move in the dihedral can catch you off guard. Great climb though, can't wait to climb the actual route.

By mattb19
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 13, 2008
rating: 5.8

Are the hangers on the top of the feature the top of the route? Can you rap it? After doing Yucca Flower Tower we went over and thought we would just see if we could rap in and went off the hangers at the top. We ended up in some death gully with lots of lose rock. We saw a sling in the gully as well that appeared that someone else tried to rap there. We got our ropes stuck so we never got to see if that was the way to go.

By Bill Lawry
Jul 19, 2008

No bolted anchors last time I was at the top of Crackula.

By Chuck and Tamara
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 19, 2008

MattB; it sounds like you could of been somewhere by Big-T...were you near/above Bush Shark by chance? Crackula is best approached by hiking down echo canyon from the La-Luz junction for approx 5 minutes...to the base of the formation.

By mattb19
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 22, 2008
rating: 5.8

Thanks Chuck and Tamara you are correct.

By Nick Manke
From: Edgewood, NM
Sep 17, 2008

As Ryan said we got a little off route, but the correct route is awesome. The second pitch has some good exposure so find a solid hold and lean out for a great view. Good pro throughout the entire climb but watch out for little $&*@ heads that like to kick rocks off the edge of the top...