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Ego Boost
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Southeast Ridge 

Southeast Ridge 

5.7+

   

FA: Gary Hicks, Jay Stagnone, 26 March 1974
Type: Trad, Alpine
Consensus: 5.7+ [details]
Length: 2 pitches
Views: 86 page views

Submitted By: Bill Lawry on Jan 19, 2008


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Route and Area Submission Guidelines MORE INFO >>>

Description 

See roughly marked route on beta photo for Ego Boost. This route is described in Mike Hill's guide. Also, see below Getting There.

P1: A short pitch leading over blocks up the SE ridge. Probably more than one way to go. Watch for one or two loose suitcase-sized blocks. We ended the pitch at a cozy horizontal platform somewhat sunk between surrounding rock and perhaps slightly on the east side of the SE ridge.

P2: Climb ~20 feet back up to the ridge top and drop a little down to the left before traversing up and left to the south face "amphitheatre" and significant exposure (not just exposure to the tram). The route then goes straight up via a mantle onto a small ledge. From the ledge, layback (crux) onto a slab - hard 5.7 for one or two moves. Then follow up a short obvious crack on the left for several feet to a large flake at the top of the slab. Finger traverse to the climber's right across the top of the slab beneath a slight bulge until below a chockstone and a bush that is not thorny. Pull up and over the chockstone. Easier climbing leads to a belay including a fixed pin or two. Rope drag can be significant.

After the second pitch and while roped, we trended left and then up through a short steep fourth class section and beyond to the summit.


Location 

After scrambling to the middle of the base of Ego Boost, continue scrambling to climber's right following the base until one must either tackle a sort of brushy right facing dihedral or rock climb the large rock shoulder which extends ~SE away from the plane of the south face. At this point, climb up the rock shoulder while trending right - exposed and unprotected fourth class. The climbing eases after about 30 or 40 feet and ends after about 100 feet at the top of the shoulder. This should be at the base of the southeast ridge. We set up a belay where the shoulder dropped steeply off to the east.


Protection 

Standard rack. Bring a few long slings to minimize rope drag on the second pitch.