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BETA PHOTO: Little Yellow Jacket Topo
Description
Start on a steep red blunt arete, climb straight up through a bulge and exit left on to a steep slab. Climb up past bolts past a horizontal break, continue up a corner and exit right to easier climbing and the belay, 110ft 10+/11-.
Pitch 2, move up and left staying out of the corner on clean face climbing to gain a pin. Aim for a short L facing corner, climb the corner and exit R to a ledge, a few more moves up and left gains the belay, 115ft 5.10a.
Pitch 3- Straight up corner 40ft, mantel up and left, trend up and left on perfect stone past a bolt and piton to the belay, 115ft 5.10+/11-.
Pitch 4- Traverse L off of the belay to an open book, climb up and exit right to corner and crack system, eventually under clinging out right and up to the belay ledge, 120ft 5.10c.
Pitch 5- Climb up and L to a small ledge clip the bolt and do a delicate traverse left (crux) into a gully. Climb good rock on the right wall of the gully to another ledge. Climb the pillar directly above the ledge via a thin crack that leads to a wild block/flake, climb directly over this to the summit. LYJ does not stay in the left hand gully. 140ft 5.11a.
Location
Located about 100ft down and around the corner to the northwest of the start of Second Coming. Walk off the top.
Protection
Light Sandia Rack (single set of cams and nuts to 2") All the anchors except the top have one bolt with gear options. All pitches have some fixed gear.
Great, great route. The rock is super clean and the cruxes are very interesting and fun.
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Aug 2, 2008 rating: 5.11a R
Although John recommends a light, single set, we took a double set of the small to medium gear (C3s to #1 Camelot). We were happy we did (I can be a bit of a ninny when it comes to run outs! I like to see gear below me.)! My partner described this route as "warpy moople on steroids". He was referring to a few heady run out sections on the faces that are certain to grab your attention! They are not difficult, just heady. If you climb 5.11, you will be fine.
A nice route though. The traverse on the fourth pitch is awesome!
By DisturbingThePeace From: Albuquerque, NM Aug 4, 2008 rating: 5.11a PG13
I found the start on the 1st pitch and the crux of the third pitch to be the headiest areas, and the hardest cruxes. In both areas Tony spotted some places for gear that I may have missed. In comparison the 11a crux on the last pitch was both really well protected and felt easy. I was also happy we brought a double set. I don't think any of the harder sections R rated, but some of the easier sections could be 5.9 PG-13 or R.
Muralla Grande
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