Sandia Mountains

10/7/2008- Popular La Luz Trail closed following collapse

The trail closure of upper La Luz affects some approaches and descents in the Sandias.

"The La Luz Trail, one of the more popular hiking destinations around Albuquerque, is closed after part of the trail collapsed.
The eight-mile trail is located north of the Tramway and reaches from the foothills to Sandia Crest.
The Sandia Ranger District says lower portions of the trail remain open at the trailhead parking lot, but the upper part of the trail is closed.
"Our Trails Foreman has inspected the trail collapse and advises that the trail be closed for visitor safety," said Sandia District Ranger Cid Morgan in a press release. "Due to the popularity of the trail and the number of Balloon Fiesta participants, public safety is our primary concern and until this segment of the La Luz Trail can be inspected by engineering personnel and repaired, the trail will remain closed.""

Source: http://kob.com/article/stories/S609349.shtml?cat=500

One might want to check out the download from Sharp End Publishing. It shows the introduction to Mick Shein's "Sandia Rock" (2003)

www.sharpendbooks.com/pdfs/sandia.pdf

I just recently got a copy of the Jackon Guide to New Mexico Climbing. I have climbed Tooth Or Consequences in the Organs (really enjoyed it!), but I am embarrassed to say I have never been to the Sandias...they look amazing. Long Adventure routes on quality rock and generally well protected with year round access and weather...or is that a neophyte's misconception? I'd love to go there, but first get the skinny from locals. It seems odd that NM doesn't seem to get the publicity that Utah or Colorado climbs do for "intermountain west", but, anyway.... are the bolts on the long routes being replaced by new and improved 21st century quality beef? Specifically, I am keen to do some of the long routes on the Shield.
thanks....

"quality rock and generally well protected "

That's hilarious! You made my day!

I haven't been up there this spring. It sounds like you have. How were the snow conditions before last weeks' snow? From my house, it looks like there's still quite a bit of snow, even on some south facing slopes. Makes me think the gully would be pretty snowy, but I don't know.

Let us know what you find out!

Anyone made the journey to the Windward Wall? looks sweet in the guidebook, but perhaps a bit difficult to find.

How about the Watchtower?

The approach for science friction/windward walls aren't too bad. Approach via the crest, from the La Luz junction (Echo canyon meets upper La Cueva canyon) hike/scramble west sticking to the ridge line. There is a rap station (somewhat hidden) facing SW. Thus these crags get pretty good sun-exposure. If you pass the rap station no worries you cant continue too much further the line ends. The first rap gets you to the base of the upper tier crag. A second station after a scramble north gets you to the base of the lower tier.

What does a Sandia rack consist of?

My standard rack for anything in the Sandia's typically consists of doubles (camalots) from 0.3 to #2 with one #3, a few smaller cams (C3s), a full set of nuts, and 10 slings. Slings are important because so many routes wander, though you could probably get away with less than ten on most routes with some quick draws (I don't have to extend all of them but I do end up slinging most of my pieces). If the route description ever recommends bringing any pieces larger, I typically do.

Hope that is helpful.

Does anyone know where to access the U-mound boulders?

There's a parking lot at the Eastern terminus of Copper (road). To get to Copper, from I-40, exit at Tramway and go North. Copper is the 2nd light. Go right on Copper (East). Drive a few hundred yards and park. Enter the open space and follow an excellent trail ~200yds to the NE to the largest pile of rocks.

Bring lots of band-aids and neosporene.

Also see U-Mound for a link to an online guide.

Does anyone have beta for a supposed tyrolean traverse. Between the cake and the candle?

Thanks to those who've shared topos and route descriptions for the new routes established in the Sandias in the last 5 or 10 years not yet found in the guidebooks! This site is turning into a good resource. Keep 'em coming!! I've heard many great things about the newer climbs, and the ones I've done have been excellent.

It's great to have more projects to consider after climbing many of those in Schein's quite accurate 'Sandia Rock' guide; especially as some of the info in the other older once-comprehensive book is outdated (with respect to pro and it assumes 50m ropes), or generally a little unclear, but it does have cool artistic hand-drawn sketches.

Can anyone comment on a) current snow conditions and b) the temperatures to expect up on the rocks, if Albuquerque is forecast for low 60s and sunny (as later next week)? Specific routes I am considering are the Thumb and Needle ridge climbs, and Procrastination on the Shield. Thanks!

I haven't been up there this season, but I can see a lot of snow up there from my house. In fact, we got another ~1/2 an inch Wednesday night (at my house). I would guess the approach to any of those 3 routes would be pretty heinous, but the rock would be relatively snow free.

An older but enjoyable read about the Sandias by local climber Josh Smith is online at Climbing.com.

Here is a periodically updated trail report: Sandia Ranger District La Luz Trail Report .