Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
BETA PHOTO: Upper La Cueva Canyon on 28 April 2007
Description
Because of the approaches to the climbing areas here, you will typically find solitude while climbing in the Sandias. Due to high elevation and nature of these mountains, conditions can vary. While one can climb at any time of the year, the best time seems to be between May through October. West and Southwest facing walls, such as Muralla Grande, can be warm and dry even on winter days. Watch for thunderstorms during the summer months.
Getting There
The majority of the climbs are accessed from the Sandia Crest, though some are approached from the foothills of Albuquerque (these directions will be give in the appropriate sections):
- Starting from Albuquerque, take I-40 east through Tijeras Canyon, exiting on the Tijeras exit (exit 175). - North on highway 14 for 6.8 miles - Turn left on NM 536 (follow signs to Sandia Mountain Ski area), and follow this road for about 14 miles, past the ski area, and finally to the Sandia Crest.
Getting to the different climbing areas:
Approach times and difficulties vary depending on where you are going. Directions will be given in the appropriate sections.
WARNING: Approaches can be DIFFICULT, as in both strenuous and difficult to find. It's not difficult to get lost in this area. Should anyone following directions posted on Mountain Project end up lost, feedback on the directions in order to make them more accurate is appreciated.
Resources:
- Sandia Rock by Mick Schein (2003, Sharp end Publishing) - Rock Climbing New Mexico and Texas by Dennis R. Jackson (1996, Falcon Press, out of print) - Hikers and Climbers Guide to the Sandias by Mike Hill (1993, Coyote Books)
A well protected crack on good rock. Touted by the Sandia Rock guide as "The best 5.8 in the Sandias". The crack begins at the right end of the formation and continues to a right facing dihedral. Midway up this dihedral (not far past a piece of fixed pro- an old stuck cam), you will step left, out of the dihedral, and onto the face. Continue up the crack system to the top of the climb. ...[more]
I just recently got a copy of the Jackon Guide to New Mexico Climbing. I have climbed Tooth Or Consequences in the Organs (really enjoyed it!), but I am embarrassed to say I have never been to the Sandias...they look amazing. Long Adventure routes on quality rock and generally well protected with year round access and weather...or is that a neophyte's misconception? I'd love to go there, but first get the skinny from locals. It seems odd that NM doesn't seem to get the publicity that Utah or Colorado climbs do for "intermountain west", but, anyway.... are the bolts on the long routes being replaced by new and improved 21st century quality beef? Specifically, I am keen to do some of the long routes on the Shield. thanks....
I haven't been up there this spring. It sounds like you have. How were the snow conditions before last weeks' snow? From my house, it looks like there's still quite a bit of snow, even on some south facing slopes. Makes me think the gully would be pretty snowy, but I don't know.
The approach for science friction/windward walls aren't too bad. Approach via the crest, from the La Luz junction (Echo canyon meets upper La Cueva canyon) hike/scramble west sticking to the ridge line. There is a rap station (somewhat hidden) facing SW. Thus these crags get pretty good sun-exposure. If you pass the rap station no worries you cant continue too much further the line ends. The first rap gets you to the base of the upper tier crag. A second station after a scramble north gets you to the base of the lower tier.
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Oct 8, 2007
My standard rack for anything in the Sandia's typically consists of doubles (camalots) from 0.3 to #2 with one #3, a few smaller cams (C3s), a full set of nuts, and 10 slings. Slings are important because so many routes wander, though you could probably get away with less than ten on most routes with some quick draws (I don't have to extend all of them but I do end up slinging most of my pieces). If the route description ever recommends bringing any pieces larger, I typically do.
There's a parking lot at the Eastern terminus of Copper (road). To get to Copper, from I-40, exit at Tramway and go North. Copper is the 2nd light. Go right on Copper (East). Drive a few hundred yards and park. Enter the open space and follow an excellent trail ~200yds to the NE to the largest pile of rocks.
Bring lots of band-aids and neosporene.
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Oct 11, 2007
Does anyone have beta for a supposed tyrolean traverse. Between the cake and the candle?
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Dec 6, 2007
Thanks to those who've shared topos and route descriptions for the new routes established in the Sandias in the last 5 or 10 years not yet found in the guidebooks! This site is turning into a good resource. Keep 'em coming!!
It's great to have more projects to consider after climbing many of those in Schein's quite accurate 'Sandia Rock' guide; especially as some of the info in the other older once-comprehensive book is outdated (with respect to pro and it assumes 50m ropes), or generally a little unclear, but it does have cool artistic hand-drawn sketches.
Can anyone comment on a) current snow conditions and b) the temperatures to expect up on the rocks, if Albuquerque is forecast for low 60s and sunny (as later next week)? Specific routes I am considering are the Thumb and Needle ridge climbs, and Procrastination on the Shield. Thanks!
I haven't been up there this season, but I can see a lot of snow up there from my house. In fact, we got another ~1/2 an inch Wednesday night (at my house). I would guess the approach to any of those 3 routes would be pretty heinous, but the rock would be relatively snow free.
Sandia Mountains
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