Josh making the roof move on Bring Me a Bucket (No...
Description
In 2003, Gary and Lynn Clark put in 6 widely spaced bolts on this new route, which is essentially a p2 variation of Juniper Overhang.
p1 (access): Climb p1 of Juniper Overhang. You can also climb either of Juniper Direct (5.6), El Faralito (5.4), Chile Verde (5.6) or Refritos (5.6) to a 2 bolt anchor on the right side of Juniper ledge.
p2 (Bring Me a Bucket): If you anchor w/gear at the top of p1 of Juniper Overhang, climb straight above the belay ledge, following 3 bolts along a black water streak to the roof. Some people may wish to supplement the bolts with gear placements. If you anchor at the 2 bolt belay station on the right end of Juniper ledge, then traverse left for a bit and then head up toward the first bolt. The climbing gets thin just below the roof (5.9). The roof itself is well protected with a bolt just above the lip. The climbing gets easier above the roof with 2 more widely spaced bolts. Continue following the bolt line to a 2-bolt anchor. The final headwall is fun and exciting.
Location
The start of p1 of Juniper Overhang is about 20 ft. to the right of Big E, about midway along a fallen log on the ground. There's some vegetation heading up about 70' to a rectangular cutout in the rock.
For p2 (Bring Me a Bucket), start from either the left or right side of Juniper ledge, depending on which route you climbed for p1.
For the descent, hike left from the anchors and then scramble/hike up for about 2-3 minutes until you see cairns for a good descent trail.
Protection
For p1, you will need a set of stoppers and cams to 3" and 6-8 double length runners. The Bring Me a Bucket Route itself is protected by 6 bolts, with the 4th bolt right on the lip of the roof.
The very top of the route has a bolted anchor. You will need gear for the middle belay if you climb p1 of Juniper Overhang. Otherwise, there is a bolted belay on the right side of Juniper Ledge.
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