(04) Juniper Overhang 

FA:  Gary and Lynn Clark - 1st documented ascent, 1987, probably others earlier Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9+ [details] Length:  2 pitches, 300 feet Season:  spring, summer, fall, and warm/dry days in winter Views: 202 page views Submitted By: scotthsu on Oct 9, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Scott below the roof on p2 of Juniper Overhang (No...

Description 

This is a good trad route that goes over the Juniper roof on its left side. A 50 m rope is sufficient.

p1: Start about 20 ft. right of Big E below a rectangular cutout which is about 70 ft. up. There's some vegetation heading up to the cutout. Climb over the ceiling of the cutout (5.7) and continue to a nice belay ledge. There is a 2-4" wide vertical crack for building a belay anchor.

p2: Climb straight up and trend left toward the right-facing dihedral below the roof. The climbing gets thin (5.9+) just below the roof. Stoppers and tri-cams are useful in the dihedral and for the roof move. The climbing gets easier above the roof. Continue to a 2-bolt anchor at the top.

Location 

The start is about 20 ft. to the right of Big E, about midway along a fallen log on the ground. For the descent, hike left from the anchors and then scramble/hike up for about 2-3 minutes until you see cairns for a good descent trail.

Protection 

gear: set of stoppers and cams to 3", 8 double-length runners; small tri-cams are useful.
anchors: gear on p1, bolted anchors on p2.

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Scott climbing just above the rectangular cutout o...