Excellent climbing with abundant placements and holds. Good route for a first trad lead.
Location
This is the rightmost route on the main wall. Start directly under the big cave/hole halfway up the wall. To descend, follow the summit "ridge" down to the right and drop into the obvious 3rd-/4th-class gully. Beware of cacti.
Protection
Std. rack up to BD #1 or #2. Big gear (BD #2,#3, big hexes/nuts) and 20' of webbing can be used to set an anchor at the top.
I think this is the best quality of four the 'easy' climbs described by Gary Clark in this section of El Rito Trad. Don't not do it just because it is a 5.3. Especially if you are wanting an easy, beginner trad lead, it is a nice 5.3. The route follows a nice line, is not contrived, and offers lots of opportunity to learn gear placement.
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