Moving into the optional-but-worth-it smooth rock ...
Description
P1: Follow the obvious dihedral on the right hand side of the cliff up to a bolted belay anchor under the right hand side of the large roof.
P2: Turn the roof on the right and continue straight up to the top. Excellent.
Location
Starts in the obivous dihedral on the right hand side of the cliff. Walk off up and to the left.
Protection
Standard Trad Rack (Set of nuts, set of cams, and slings). Additional passive pro may be useful (e.g., hexes or tri-cams). Anchor bolts are located at the top of P1 under the right hand side of the roof. Belay from gear at the top (no anchors).
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Sep 30, 2007 rating: 5.6
The first pitch of this route offers loads of protection options and is enjoyable. The second pitch is airy as you step around the roof and back left over the big roof atop pitch 1. It's stellar! Personally, I find the gear options on the second pitch to be less-than-desirable with odd shaped cracks and flares. When I lead the second pitch I trend left and up which takes one into a smooth section of rock which offers a bit more challenge as well as a bit more length to the pitch. It also gets you to a bomber tree to use for a belay anchor.
The route lives up to its name! Sounded like the packrat was doing its packrat thing in/under the pile of leaves/brush behind the big flake at the first belay.....
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Nov 4, 2007 rating: 5.6
If you're looking for a short bit of variation on pitch 1 of this route climb the obvious corner (a.k.a. Rat Crack) to climber's left from the good-sized ledge about 30 feet below the bolted anchor atop P1. It's steep and positive with some fun stemming and no harder than 5.8.
Another fun variation: we aimed straight up P2 after rounding the roof at the start of P2. This variation was as wonderfully "airy" as the "aim left for the tree" option discussed above, but the climbing is enjoyable (no harder than 5.6), and there are a fair number of options for gear.
By Bryan T From: Albuquerque, New Mexico Sep 14, 2009
Second Jason's comment on the gear on the second pitch. Seems to me that a set of smaller and medium hexes would help protect the second pitch well.