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Gnar Wall & Route Canal
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Blackballed 
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Look Ma No Cavities 
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Tooth Fairy 

Blackballed 

5.10c

   

FA: Gary Clark?
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10b/c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 202 page views

Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 19, 2007


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Techy climb


Description 

Blackballed is the middle route on the S face of Gnar Wall (15' left of Crest Chewel).

Juggish cruiser moves down low lead to a dilemma near the last bolt at the steepest section: do you want to go just left of the last bolt or go try going just right? Both work... probably about the same rating?


Protection 

4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor



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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 26, 2007
rating: 5.10c

Going right at the crux feels best to me. I remember a left hand side pull when going left which thwarted me in the past. Straight up also works just fine.

By Jason Hundhausen
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 1, 2007
rating: 5.10c

Fun stuff! Pretty mellow then a good crux before pulling a small roof to the anchors. (I tend to go right at the crux too.) Had fun on this one.

By ScottCThompson
May 12, 2009
rating: 5.10b

Great route. I found it to be as difficult as Balls to the Wall, but a bit more sustained.

By manuel rangel
From: tempe, az
Nov 11, 2009
rating: 5.10b

Good climb but a bit easier for me so I didn't feel it was 5.10c. It was just a hard pull on the right then a big jug. Great fun.