BETA PHOTO: Captain Hook (10d) and Walking the Plank (11c) on ...
Description
Good, long route, with a strenuous start and finish. Follow the first three bolts up and over a bulge. Past the third bolt, the climbing eases until the fifth bolt where the route begins to overhang slightly. Continue up the dark water streak to the crux just under the eighth bolt – good holds, but a committing reach to the ninth bolt. The anchors are also a bit awkward to clip. Watch for some loose cobbles near the center of the route.
Location
Located near the center of Pirate’s Wall, just up hill from the Training Wall. Look for a dark streak on the top half of the wall. Captain Hook starts below the streak, and then follows it to the anchors.
Protection
10 bolts to a two bolt anchor.
Photos of (03) Trick or Treat? (Captain Hook) Slideshow
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Sep 30, 2007 rating: 5.10b/c
I really enjoy this route. It's a little inconsistent with it being a bit difficult to start, cruiser easy in the middle and steep and strenous on the upper third of the route. But the jugs up there are big! I believe this route is known as "Trick or Treat" in Foley's Taos Rock book.
This one was first climbed on Halloween day 1997 by myself and Mike Freeborn. Because of the great finish combined with a less than perfect mid section we called it: Trick Or Treat?
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Jul 9, 2008 rating: 5.10b/c
Thanks for the names and background info on these routes, Jay. I believe the naming confusion for a few of these came from the fact that Gary Clark did not know the names of the routes when he created his online guide so he gave them something more appealing than "Unnamed" and stated that he'd like to know the real names. In the updated G. Clark PDF, the real names have been added. Thanks!
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