This one is great. Requires no crack technique despite the name. Super enduro- in your face til the end.
Sequential climbing right off the ground. If you are tall it is easier to reach the starting hold with the correct hand. Fun long pulls on mostly good pockets leads up to a shouldery move to the left getting into the bottom of the flake. Some good sidepulls and a pocket out left lead up the flake to a couple of slopier holds and a honking jug at the top and a great rest. From here the climbing gets somewhat sequential and progerssively more difficult as you move up into a shallow right facing corner on pockets and sidepulls. A sidepull pinch on a cobble up high allows one to reach up left out of the corner onto the huge embedded cobble, but there is only a good edge on top. Then its just a couple of more moves up and right on mostly jugs to the anchors.
Location
5th route from the left, has a crack/layback type feature midway up.
The start is a little cruxy then big pockets most of the way up the climb. The last three/four bolts are tougher with smaller holds and steeper climbing.
Very pumpy, with some technical cruxes. Top part is dope. I found it hard for the grade (certainly compared to other El Rito routes). Definitely one of the best routes in El Rito (though the short bouldery routes on Beer Block are classic in their own way). Can't imagine giving this one less than 4 stars. If you're wondering whether or not you've actually sent 5.12a on the Rad Wall after climbing Bolting Barbie, Procrastination, and Stroke Me, you can stop wondering when you clip the chains clean on crack attack.
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