Rio Arriba County (El Rito, Brazos, San Juans)

Description 

The southern San Juans and Tusas Mtns. in Rio Arriba County in north-central New Mexico, provide a few unheralded gems in New Mexican climbing. This area is just far enough away from most major population centers that it never seems to get too crowded; however, for years, this area that has been the stomping grounds especially for Santa Fe and Los Alamos climbers.

For a long time, the Brazos Cliffs (New Mexico's biggest wall, exceeding 1500' in its highest section), were explored and the focal point of Los Alamos climbers. Los Alamos climbers have been epic-ing on these cliffs for years, as the LA Mountaineering Club had special access until recent years (as this group no longer has any sort of special access privileges). Nowadays, the Brazos Cliffs see much less traffic and remain truly wilderness adventure climbing.

In the 90s, the discovery of sport climbing potential at El Rito triggered a flurry of activity on this excellent conglomerate sport climbing area that is almost unique in the U.S. (except for a similar area in Utah- Maple Canyon). Steep and juggy, with many climbs 5.9 to 5.12, this area is now one of the more popular sport climbing areas in New Mexico. A nearby cliff- the El Rito Trad Area- is a wonderful 250' cliff for the beginning trad climber.

In between these areas, the striking and scary looking sandstone spires of the Ghost Ranch area have been explored by Cam Burns and Mike Baker, at times using innovative aid climbing techniques. Many more spires of this nature no doubt remain to be climbed in this area and elsewhere in the region.

Unlike the rest of New Mexico- this area can actually be chilly in the winter, and El Rito is one of the better summer destinations in New Mexico. Spring, after the roads are free of snow, and fall are ideal. There is probably some ice climbing in the high country in the San Juans for those willing to hunt it down, but it's unlikely you'll find it publicly documented.

This region of New Mexico has a reputation for being rough, renegade, and scary. Many outsiders seem to be scared of interaction with locals, which may or not be not warranted.

Supplies Small markets can be found in El Rito, Abiquiu, and Chama. For a full supermarket, Espanola, Taos, Alamosa, or Pagosa Spgs are nearest, but the market in Chama is fairly good too.

Camping Nearly unlimited camping opportunities can be found on Carson National Forest Land, including areas near where you'd park for the El Rito climbing areas. Be alert to not trespass on the Tierra Amarilla Land Grant area near the Brazos and to pay attention to other private property notices. A number of forest service/BLM campgrounds are around the area as well (none of them located really close to the crags).

Other activities Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs is a good place to rejuvenate after tough climbing days, or to sit out occasional rainy days. The Rio Chama provides excellent rafting and fishing. Cliff jumping on one of the southern arms of Abiquiu Lake might seem like a good idea on hot days. Ghost Ranch is worth a visit.

Getting There 

From Santa Fe, take US-84 north, passing through Espanola toward Abiquiu, and follow directions to the individual areas. From western Colorado, US-84 south out of Pagosa Spgs leads to the same area. From Alamosa, south on US-285, and various shortcuts reach the areas.

The Classics

Featured Route For Rio Arriba County (El Rito, Brazos, San Juans)

(06) Crack Attack 5.12a  NM : El Rito : ... : Rad Wall

This one is great. Requires no crack technique despite the name. Super enduro- in your face til the end.Sequential climbing right off the ground. If you are tall it is easier to reach the starting hold with the correct hand. Fun long pulls on mostly good pockets leads up to a shouldery move to the left getting into the bottom of the flake. Some good sidepulls and a pocket out left lead up the flake to a couple of slopier holds and a honking jug...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM