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The last pitch of Bear Mountain Picnic Massacre. ...
Description
An excellent description is already published in Jay's Book. Climb starts at cairned slab. The belay stance is in an alcove on a narrow ledge. Rope-up below small tree and stay on slab left of gully to large tree with slings (1st belay). From here you can continue left on 5.7 slab to anchor at base of wall (pass 2nd tree with slings - this tree is 61 meters from the starting ledge). The other choice (preferred) climbs up right from the first belay to a bolted 5.10 slab. The 3rd pitch is stellar. Bring adequate runners for slinging chicken heads. Three choices on the finish. The standard goes direct into the short steep cleft with a finger to hand sized cam protecting the final 5.8 moves. Other finishes go left on 5.7 unprotectable slab with wild exposure or right into the loose gully (5.5?). One of the best 5.8 trad pitches anywhere. "The top pitch of the Five Eight Variant was pure magic, dramatis, steep and yet with superb holds" Sir Chris Bonnington.
Location
Approach as for Questa Dome but turn left and work way uphill about 50 ft. prior to finally reaching stream. Walk between boulders on faint climber trail to base of Legs (of El Oso).
Protection
Standard rack, few extra runners for slingin' necks.
Add CommentComments on Bear Mountain Picnic Massacre (Original 5.8)
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By Bowe Ellis From: Taos, NM Jun 17, 2008 rating: 5.7
Peronally I think the crux is the move around the bulge on pitch 1, which is 5.7 with so-so pro. The final pitch is steep, the pro is pretty much all slinging of chickenheads, and there's the amazing airy step-around to get onto the headwall... but the climbing is so bloody easy. I give the final pitch a 5.7 with a + for airiness. Without a doubt the last pitch makes the climb.
Nice photo. It looks like, from the way your rope runs, you went climber's right up the gully. Jay and I thought the direct finish up the cleft at the bottom of the frame might give the route a 5.8 finish (a few short brave moves). It is easy to go around this and keep the grade 5.7, agreed. I thought the slab bulge was a little tricky down low too, especially since the one good pocket had poison ivy sprouting up out of it. Hope you enjoyed it regardless.
Questa Dome
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