Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Bill Geist starting out on sideways no-hands trave...
Description
Pitch 1: Begin below a short, curving half moon flake about 20 feet off the ground. Climb up to the flake and then veer a little left across a slab under a small roof. Reach a thin crack with a pin and then go straight up steep rock past a bolt to a chain anchor. Classic! Pitch 2: Climb straight up the thin crack past a pin and where the crack dies out, step a little left and then back right to a horn/flake (dicey) make another dicey move up to a thin fingers crack following it to a bolted belay. Classic! Pitch 3: Drop down and right along a small dike reaching a thin crack. Continue up the thin crack and step right to another crack. Follow the crack and then make a hard move past a bolt (1/4in) and up to another dike. Clip another bolt (1/4in) and then traverse left under the roof system to a belay below a overhang with a thin crack running through it. Pitch 4: Step a little left to a huge pocket, go straight up over the roof following a crack to where it becomes a seam. Suck it up (r-rated) and climb up the seam to awesome chickenheads to a belay at tree (180 feet). Classic! Pitch 5: Climb easy rock on great chickenheads aiming for the tall pines on the summit of the rock.
Descent: Go right (east) following a faint trail to a gulley, Drop down the gulley and then rap from a fixed line 90 feet to the ground.
Protection
Standard rack up to blue camalots. Bring doubles on gray and green camalots.
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Aug 26, 2007 rating: 5.11a/b PG13
A wonderful route! I've only experienced rock and solitude like this on Charlotte Dome in California. I've been on this route twice now and would love to go up many more times. A great mix of everything and the 5.11 crux is well-protected and done early in the route.
Bob's rack recommendation here is great although we added a second small blue and purple. Nice.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Apr 11, 2008 rating: 5.11a
Great climbing on some of the cleanest rock in New Mexico. This climb goes at 5.10 A0, as the 5.11 crux on the 1st pitch is short, and can be easily be aided by pulling on the fixed pins. There are mandatory 5.10 slab moves on a couple of pitches, however.
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