Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Charlie Cundiff slotting his fingers where a wired...
Description
An excellent line leading up through an intimidating thin dihedral, and ending on a long finger-crack/corner. The dihedral start is the crux and while the moves don't feel terribly difficult, they are committing and on small/suspect gear, considering the rock quality of the crag. Still, if you're looking for a gutsy lead in the low 5.10s than this climb is it!
Location
Located directly behind a tall straight tree, this thin seam/dihedral is easy to spot. Dennis Jackson's guide describes starting to the left 12 ft, in an easier looking corner. This may be an alternate start which avoids the nerve-wracking dihedral, but I feel sure that the original route tackles the dihedral.
Protection
A small/mid sized wire protects the crux-dihedral, and is fairly easy to place. However, it also fills in one of the few spots in the dihedral that you can fit your fingers into. You can stare at the small wire as you commit to the 5.10a moves, just don't fall to test that pro out! The rest of the climb protects with small-mid sized wires and cams.