Pecos River Canyon

Rick McWilliams on "nearly classic" (5.11b)

Description 

Pecos River Canyon is a picturesque granite crag northeast of Santa Fe, NM in the Santa Fe National Forest. The crag offers five separate cliffs of one-pitch, mixed trad and sport climbs on excellent pink-hued granite, nestled among the pines above the trout-filled Pecos River. On a typical weekend day, climbers will be outnumbered by fishermen 3 to 1. This ultimate roadside crag suffers and benefits from its accessibility. Complete solitude will be difficult to attain while belaying from the highway shoulder at Cathedral Rock; however, the dense vegetation and mandatory river crossing can make the Bleachers, only 100 feet distant, feel a world apart.

This crag offers excellent climbing on thin slabs, steep jug hauls, and blocky cracks (usually with a roof or two). This is a haven for the granite face-climbing afficionado, reminiscent of the best rock in the Sandias and Gilman. There are a number of pure trad lines (generally dihedrals), but this crag doesn't have any 'splitter' cracks. The real prime routes are in the 5.9 to 5.11- range, which would make this place popular in any state but NM.

Getting There 

From Interstate 25, head north to the town of Pecos. Continue north from Pecos on State Route 63 for about 7.5 miles. The Cathedral, which is the main crag, will appear on the right (E) side of the road, just as the road bends sharply to the left. The Cathedral is 10.5 miles from the intersection of 66 and 63 in Pecos. There is a small, sometimes crowded pullout on the left (W) side of the highway about 25 feet past the Cathedral. Additional parking can be found N and S of the Cathedral at various Forest Service picnic grounds, etc.

Add Photo Photos of Pecos River Canyon

BETA PHOTO: Approach view of the Grandstand

View of the cheap seats, from the Grandstand.