Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
Another controversial Slab Wall route, this gymnastic line may be characterized as a vision of things to come, or a complete travesty. Certainly this route could be lead with natural gear, but for better or worse, the route has been fully bolted, and apparently 'comfortized', for your sport-climbing pleasure.
If you can ignore the ethical issues, this route offers a unique hybrid of trad and sport climbing styles. Well developed jamming skills are necessary as are sport climbing techniques and finger strength.
The crux hits right above the choss band with an intense ring lock, devious feet and sequential jamming. A traverse up and right leads to a bomber, sharp, finger-lock and the third bolt. From here things ease up to 5.11-ish hand jamming and the occasional 2-3-finger pocket. Fight the pump through good jams and some long reaches between pods to the anchor.
Be sure to tape up your hands and many fingers for this bad-boy! This route's probably a soft-touch at 13a.
Location
Second route from the right on the Slab Wall. Follows the most prominent bolted crack on the wall.
Protection
Bolts to 2 BA. If leading with gear, bring several small pieces to hand-sized cams. Beware that cams have diminshed holding power in polished limestone.
this is actually a pretty unique route because of its steepness. paul horack apparently tried it with gear in the 80's, it would be interesting to see if anybody is willing to hang on the painful locks and place their own gear. that might be the reason why it got bolted.
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