Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
This controversial route has two things going for it: its hard, and its not a bolted crack. Unfortunately, both of these "virtues" are a direct result of the route's major downside, the fact that it is nearly entirely manufactured.
However, if you can rationalize the tactics used to establish this route, you will be entertained by the movement, and challenged by the difficulty.
Begin up the easy choss-band, climbing into a steeply overhanging right-facing dihedral capped by a small roof. Reach your left hand up into a drilled "bowling ball" grip, and chuck for the big hold at the bottom of the crack feature. Ascend this feature with ease and shake as needed. A lowering ring at the end of this amounts to the end of the 12b 'variation' to this route. Above this point, things get hard.
Follow sequential two-finger pockets (the first is natural, the rest are chipped) to the highest, tweakiest pocket and the last clip before the V8 crux. Work up and left into the extremely steep dihedral, hike up your feet, and huck for the cheese grater sloper above. A few easier moves lead to the anchor.
Many of the pockets on this route seap after heavy rains.
Location
Furthest right (S) route on the Slab Wall. Identifiable as a steeply overhanging, right-facing dihedral.
RSS Feed
