Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
This route is defined by powerful big moves on better than they look holds.
Start out on some high pockets and make some powerful moves over the starting bulge. Continue up with hard moves (might want to consider stick clipping the second bolt if 12b isn't easy for you, I did) past the second bolt. Find some holds past the next bulge clip the third bolt and get a nice rest. Shakeout and continue up on easy ground using some face holds and jams, and make one more heads up move to the anchors.
Location
In the middle of the Franks wall, kinda difficult to find. "Between Entertaining Mike Tyson 13b" and a project. An easy way to find it is to find the horizontal growing pine the trail goes over, "Crash Test Dummies 11d" is directly above this, 2 routes to the right is Dark Dreams. Or just look for the attractive pink streaks as mentioned in the Bernard Moret guide, with some imagination they can be found.
Protection
5 Bolts to anchors, Stick Clip is nice for the start.
I always thought this section of the cliff was hard to decipher. There are defintately some lines in here that are described in Moret's guide. This line has some of the best-looking limestone in NM.
The Franks
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