Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
This is one of the better hard routes at Palomas, due to the fact that it actually has holds, and is not just a 60 degree overhanging bolted crack.
This route is rumored to have a drilled pocket, but I am apparently too naive to identify the pocket in question.
This route is extremely powerful, and requires a large amount of 2-finger pocket strength. The route starts with a few good jugs before launching into a desperate series of lunges and deadpoints to get established in the obvious undercling crack. From the undercling bear hug your way up and right, do a few obligatory Palomas finger locks, clip the last bolt, and cruise on to the chains.
Location
This route can be difficult to find since the number of bolted routes on this section of cliff has changed since the last guidebook edition. The route is immediately right of "Crash test Dummies" which is an 11d bolted hand crack. EMT is also the first really steep route after a short section of 3 or so mostly vertical routes.
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