Start to the right of Lonesome Dove, and left of a large prominent crack. Climb the chossy looking rock through the bottom two bolts. The crux is before the second bolt. Continue up through nice face climbing to a recess in the wall. From here, the climb completely changes character. Clip the 9th bolt and from here there are two ways. You can go left, which is easier but a pendulum fall could result in disaster. Heading straight up is the better choice.
Not a great climb in my opinion. I think the online guide goes a bit overboard with 5 stars for this. The crux is not breaking a hold through the choss. And while the middle part is good, I didn't find the top all that much fun.
Despite the weird, pointless roof boulder-problem finish, this route is very good. If you like crimping and you don't want to have to think too hard, this route is for you. IMO this one of the top ten routes at Palomas.
I agree that this is a good route, with interesting and varied climbing. But the finish is a ridiculous 2-move thrutch off a ledge big enough to host a kegger, making a mockery of an otherwise sustained high-quality climb. I wouldn't go so far as to put in a new set of anchors below the ledge, but I'd certainly clip and lower off them if somebody else did.
(09) The Far Side II
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