Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
Start slightly right of the bolt line on easy ground to a nice ledge. Pull a difficult mantle to reach the third bolt, being careful of the ledge, decking potential here. From here things get hard without using the left crack. Make a series of thin moves to get to and pass the 5th bolt and reach the anchors.
Location
Between "Surfer Boy and the Shrimp" and an unknown wide crack.
While the Bernard Moret guide calls this an easy tick at 11c, I found the top of this line to be considerably harder than 11c, more like 12b. Was I missing something or have some holds broken off? Much much easier if the left hand crack is used, somewhat contrived as it is easily within reach, but that is Palomas climbing.