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Starting up the physical dihedral pitch, pitch 5, ...
Description
This climb seeks out the obvious left-facing dihedral on the right side of the clean face on the Tooth. The climbing is more physical and burlier than that of the other routes, but is high quality nonetheless.
Pitch 1. Climb the thin crack below the triangular roof, clip a fixed nut, and traverse right to a 1-bolt (+your own gear) belay at the corner of the roof. (5.8) This pitch is the same as the start of Tooth or Consequences, and a couple of other variations exist too [a 5.8+ R thin crack start below the belay, or a 5.10+ face that reaches the same belay from the right side].
Pitch 2. Follow the rail to the right, then follow a thin hands crack up and left. Cruise past a 2-bolt belay for TrC to the next small tree (the belay for Tooth Fairy) and move right to the next tree and belay. (5.9-)
Pitch 3. Up the right angling crack filled with yuccas and grass to reach a big roof. Clip a fixed pin in the crack below this roof, traverse right across a slab with a bolt and belay in a stance below a steep corner. (5.9-)
Pitch 4. Go up the dihedral above the belay. Lieback or face climb past the crux bulge to reach a relieving knob. Continue up this corner past another small roof to a belay with 2 1/4" bolts and a fixed pin. Note that this belay is actually above the second roof, so a little higher than where shown in both guides. Quality (5.10)
Pitch 5. About 40' of liebacking up the left-trending hand-crack in the corner off the belay to reach a ledge (5.9). Traverse left on this ledge for 15', and follow a 5.8 offwidth from here to the top and the bolted anchor shared by the 3 main Tooth routes. [Rosul/Dunning says you can stay in the corner instead of traversing left, and that it is "5.9 ugly" with a giant sharp-looking bush looming ahead]
Descent: Rappel Tooth Fairy with 3 rappels with double 50m ropes.
Thanks Karl Kiser for putting up this route and for some info. Gotta love the Organs.
Location
This climb seeks out the obvious left-facing dihedral that is located to the right of the clean south-facing slab of the Tooth. The climb begins at the common location shared with Tooth Fairy and TrC, below the triangular roof.
Protection
Recommended 1-2 sets cams, with doubles in the hand sizes. 1 set nuts.
The FFA was by Edmund Ward and Karl Kiser (ca. 1979).
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Mar 14, 2008
Thanks Karl, I hope my description did your route justice. Feel free to add any comments that would improve it- I'll incorporate them into the description. Enjoyable climb.
The Tooth
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