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Unknown routes on the tooth. These two cracks are off to the right of the main face. Anyone climbed them recently?

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By Aaron Hobson
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jan 23, 2008

Each time I've been up to the tooth these two cracks have grabbed my eye. Compared to the Tooth's main attractions, I can understand why they're not mentioned: Who wants to spend most the day hiking up to this face only to do a single pitch climb? But they look good so the last time I went up there with my wife, we jumped on the right-hand crack, that being the one I judged to be easier. It turned out to be stiffer than it looked, at least for someone with my limited steep-crack climbing skills. The start is a committing move with bad fall potential to gain a small ledge. At the ledge were a pair of bolts (one old, one new). A few more face moves gains the crack, which is wide and mellow for a ways, before steepening into an awkward hand/fist/OW. I bailed at the steepest section after taking a nice fall when my insecure fist jam popped. I think the route is probably a 5.10 crack climb, and with a little more confidence, I'll be back to try it again, and hopefully the one to the left as well. Good clean rock and a great setting. If anyone out there knows anything more about these climbs I'd be interested to hear from you.

By Karl Kiser
Mar 15, 2008

Mark Motes and I put these up in the mid 1980s. The start is common. It would be a good idea to put a direct start to the left route. The right route was put up first (ca easy to mid 5.10). The left route is a bit harder. The ideas was to see if a route would go up the huge left facing dihedral above the rap bolts (needs two ropes). The rock waits...




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Unknown routes on the tooth. These two cracks are off to the right of the main face. Anyone climbed them recently?



Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Jan 23, 2008

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