By Aaron Hobson Administrator From: Las Cruces, NM Jan 23, 2008
| Each time I've been up to the tooth these two cracks have grabbed my eye. Compared to the Tooth's main attractions, I can understand why they're not mentioned: Who wants to spend most the day hiking up to this face only to do a single pitch climb? But they look good so the last time I went up there with my wife, we jumped on the right-hand crack, that being the one I judged to be easier. It turned out to be stiffer than it looked, at least for someone with my limited steep-crack climbing skills. The start is a committing move with bad fall potential to gain a small ledge. At the ledge were a pair of bolts (one old, one new). A few more face moves gains the crack, which is wide and mellow for a ways, before steepening into an awkward hand/fist/OW. I bailed at the steepest section after taking a nice fall when my insecure fist jam popped. I think the route is probably a 5.10 crack climb, and with a little more confidence, I'll be back to try it again, and hopefully the one to the left as well. Good clean rock and a great setting. If anyone out there knows anything more about these climbs I'd be interested to hear from you. |