Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
This route has a low crux negotiating an undercling/smeary traverse. It is fun and easy to protect with small cams and nuts. Turn the roof on the right and follow a crack system with good gear up to more bulges. At this point a couple of traverses to the left are possible but the climbing eases and you can choose the best looking line. Finish on the ledge where Finger Zinger anchors are located and rap with two ropes.
Location
Just right of the Finger Zinger face and before the normal approach for the Nose there is a low but obvious arching roof. Start in the right facing corner and undercling through the "arch" of the roof.
Protection
Standard Organs rack required. All sizes and configurations can be used but singles from small (.3) to Camalot #2 and nuts with some slings for drag will get you there. Finger Zinger anchor can be used for rap. I use double ropes to deal with the drag on this route and you need two ropes to get off the route safely.
This was a variation start to Anticipation (FA Mike Head--5.9; late 1970s). Note the high bolt to the right above the tree in which we once placed slings. The route continued up and then went left to the fixed anchors on the ledge. It is possible to continue up and right but again this is just another variation.
The Citadel
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