Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
It looks like an off-width, but even if you don't like off-widths, this is a fun route. Hardly any grunting required, just clean (and amazingly not too strenous) lay-backs all the way up. Near the top, it is common to traverse right on a small crack system over to the anchors for Finger Zinger. Probably the hardest part of the route is just getting into the off-width, because the rock is slightly loos and the crack is too wide to be comfortable.
Location
The big crack on the left of Finger Zinger. This climb is also easily recognizable from the approach.
Protection
Some big pieces are nice. A few #3 or bigger will give you all the protection you need. A piton (which can be backed-up) is 1/3 up the route, and the small crack system which can be used to traverse over to the anchors takes finger-sized cams. If you're uncomfortable at the grade, take more big pieces, if not 2-3 should suffice.
The Citadel
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