Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
The Citadel
Show routes:
Select route...
Arch Rival 
Clem's Folly 
Finger Zinger 
Glad We Came 
Murray's Crack 
Nose, The 
West Ridge 
Wish You Were Here 

Clem's Folly 

5.7

   

FA: Dick Ingraham & Clem Ota, 1972
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 13 pitches, 120 feet
Views: 243 page views

Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on May 8, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Route and Area Submission Guidelines MORE INFO >>>

Looking up at the crux-dihedral.


Description 

The first pitch dihedral of this 3 pitch route has stellar climbing and can easily be done on its own. From first appearances though this climb can be easily overlooked. The bottom half of the first pitch climbs up a moss filled gully and is not exactly appealing. However, once the dihedral is obtained the climbing is superb. The dihedral offers intermittent flaring hand/finger cracks and requires creative stemming and smart gear placement.

P2 heads right towards an old 1/4" bolt about 15' away and keeps going right until a dihedral is encountered. Cut right under a roof at the top of the dihedral to a belay stance above a large boulder. P3 follows a 25' hand-crack to another ledge and then easy 5th class scrambling to the summit.


Location 

The base of this climb is near the clearing at the bottom of the descent gully for Glad We Came. Either start directly from the left edge of this clearing, or bushwhack 15' further east and climb directly up to the dihedral.


Protection 

Standard rack. The anchor at the top of P1 is a new 1/2" bolt with a rap-ring, backed up by a piton.



Add Photo Photos of Clem's Folly
Mike Edmond at the base of <a href='/v/new_mexico/organ_mountains/the_citadel/105822413'>Clem's Folly</a>. The dihedral is visible just above the small tree.

BETA PHOTO: Mike Edmond at the base of Clem's Folly. The dihe...