Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Looking up at the crux-dihedral.
Description
The first pitch dihedral of this 3 pitch route has stellar climbing and can easily be done on its own. From first appearances though this climb can be easily overlooked. The bottom half of the first pitch climbs up a moss filled gully and is not exactly appealing. However, once the dihedral is obtained the climbing is superb. The dihedral offers intermittent flaring hand/finger cracks and requires creative stemming and smart gear placement.
P2 heads right towards an old 1/4" bolt about 15' away and keeps going right until a dihedral is encountered. Cut right under a roof at the top of the dihedral to a belay stance above a large boulder. P3 follows a 25' hand-crack to another ledge and then easy 5th class scrambling to the summit.
Location
The base of this climb is near the clearing at the bottom of the descent gully for Glad We Came. Either start directly from the left edge of this clearing, or bushwhack 15' further east and climb directly up to the dihedral.
Protection
Standard rack. The anchor at the top of P1 is a new 1/2" bolt with a rap-ring, backed up by a piton.
The Citadel
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