Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
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Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Mike Edmond in the thin section of the dihedral. T...
Description
A beautiful dihedral just to the right of Glad We Came. There are a few variations on this climb. All of them start on easy terrain and head straight up into the dihedral. Mid-way through the dihedral is a good stance/ledge. An excellent single pitch climb continues up the dihedral (thin fingers and bomber stemming) to its logical end, and then makes an exposed but well protected traverse to the anchors of Glad We Came.
Another variation climbs to the right from the stance/ledge and then up to a bolt anchor. From here, one can traverse left under the roof to the anchors of Glad We Came or continue up to the summit (I can't find info on the grade).
Location
Located just to the right of Glad We Came in a prominent dihedral.
Protection
Standard rack. Thin camming units are useful for the dihedral section above the stance. A #3 Camalot or equivalent readily protects the traverse over to Glad We Came.
By Aaron Hobson Administrator From: Las Cruces, NM May 9, 2006
Dennis Jackson's new guidebook is wrong about the 5.11 face climbing on the second pitch of this route (the summit variation). The 5.11 face climbing he refers to is on a different route called Hercumer Snurd. See Karl Kiser's Comment.
BEWARE OF MASSIVE DEATHBLOCK!!! My friend and I (both new to climbing in the LC area) did this route today and enjoyed 95% of it. I relied on the Beta from this site and may have gotten a little off route. Following the dihedral to the logical end meant (to me) going up until the wall got much steeper and was no longer a diherdral. There was a #4 camalot placement in a pod here and I started traversing left using some very good hidden holds but very lichen covered feet. The climbing seemed too insecure with the feet and I opted for a pendelum over to some face holds below a large block (with a #3 camalot placement). When I got to the block, I placed the cam and tested it, and saw and heard the block move about a half centimeter. This is the same block that is in the photo for this route with the second in the thin section. This DETACHED piece of rock is the size of a dorm refrigerator and is positioned directly over the belayer. When I was trying the traverse higher up, this #3 crack was where I was trying to reach to, and then would place gear in. Granted, from this point, the climbing becomes much more secure, but I felt I should share the knowledge of this deathblock with others who also aspire to do this highly rated route for the first time. I assume from the photo that my traverse route was a bit high for the standard route, or the locals here just run it out for added entertainment.
The Citadel
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