Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
This route follows a blunt arete on the NE face of the Citadel. It is a fun and exposed face route, with superb views up Rabbit Ear canyon. The solitude alone makes it a worthy destination, not to mention the solid and clean granite.
Location
To reach this route, stay in Rabbit Ear canyon until you can clearly see the NE face of the Citadel. The route is fairly easy to identify from below by looking for a clean arete that terminates below a steep head-wall. To reach the base of the climb requires a hearty bushwhack, but the area around the base of the cliff is relatively clear.
Protection
6 3/8" (new) bolts protect the route. A large cam can be place near the start to eliminate the initial 30' run-out (on easy terrain). A mid-size cam/wire is useful after the last bolt to reduce the 30' run-out to the anchors. The anchor is below a steep headwall and around the corner to the left, and can't be seen until you get all the way to the top. The descent is down a gully directly below the anchors and is about 100'. Two ropes are recommended but it is possible to rappel a full rope length and then scramble down (easy 5th) the last 20'.
The Citadel
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