Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
The Rabbit Ear's[edited 5-30-06] as viewed from to...
Description
The Citadel is one of the Organ's better known climbing spots. It is home to several well established routes, and a wonderful secluded setting. Dennis Jackson's guide only highlights the best climbs on this formation and there is still lots of room for exploration.
The formation has a predominately NW aspect, but parts of it face NE or more directly to the west. When the sun is high in the sky, it may ten to shine directly down the face, but there will usually be shady and sunny faces to be found here.
Getting There
From the Topp Hut continue along the 4x4 rd until it forks. Take the left fork which ends abruptly at an old mine. The trail into Rabbit Ears Canyon starts behind the tailings from this mine and is easy to find and follow up to the base of Rabbit Ear Canyon. At the base of Rabbit Ear Canyon, the Lambda Wall is directly to your left and the Citadel is straight ahead. Follow up the canyon over more difficult terrain. There is a fork in the canyon a short ways up. Following the right fork/bushwhacking takes you to the Finger Zinger area, and the western face of the Citadel. For the NE face, continue up the canyon and up onto a boulder field with excellent views of the Rabbit Ear Massif. From here, bushwhack up to the cliff directly. The approach trails are mostly non-existent, but some faint tracks can be found. the best thing to do is to locate your climbs from the canyon, and then determine the best approach.
A beautiful dihedral just to the right of Glad We Came. There are a few variations on this climb. All of them start on easy terrain and head straight up into the dihedral. Mid-way through the dihedral is a good stance/ledge. An excellent single pitch climb continues up the dihedral (thin fingers and bomber stemming) to its logical end, and then makes an exposed but well protected traverse to the anchors of Glad We Came.Another variation climbs ...[more]
The Citadel
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