BETA PHOTO: Sugarloaf Mountain. The Flea Tree Dihedral route ...
Description
Sugarloaf is the largest formation in the Organs, and hosts some of the longest rock climbs for miles around. West of the Organ crest proper, it is impossible to miss as the pristine-looking granite dome so prominent when viewed from San Augustin Pass between Cruces and Alamogordo. The impressive length of the routes, difficult-to-reach summit (the easiest way up is 4th class), great views of the Sacramento Mountains and Tularosa Basin, and overall wilderness experience makes Sugarloaf a must-do.
Most routes on Sugarloaf are shady most of the day, and can be very windy at times. It's very secluded- be self-sufficient (although cell reception may be ok), and have enough gear to survive getting benighted, a story which a few climbers tell of their first experience on this formation. The rock quality is overall very good, although expect some loose blocks and test everything, as with any formation in the wilderness.
Approach for Sugarloaf (from John Hymer)
To access Sugarloaf, and other east side routes, park at the Aguirre Spring Campground approximately 5 miles south of Highway 70 on Aguirre Spring Road. The gate is often locked until 8:00am. A pay station is located near a group campsite on the one-way loop road. Proceed to the second “group area” approximately 0.4 miles beyond the pay station. The Sugarloaf trail-head is located to the south of this “group area.”
From the parking lot, Sugarloaf is obscured by a large hill. The trail traverses the hill to the left. Find a gate south of the restrooms and follow the trail across the stream bed. It turns to the east after the stream bed (a common mistake is to walk up the stream bed). Traverse the large hill high along its base. Follow this trail for approximately one hour. If you encounter a fence, you are on the lower trail and should turn back to the correct trail.
After approximately one hour, the trail crosses a campsite. It is common to leave water here for the walk out. After a short level walk, the grade becomes steep. Just after the grade change, take a left fork and follow an obscure trail to the base of SL. Watch for snakes! The entire approach usually takes approximately 1.5 hours.
Descent
copied from North Face route description The descent requires an exposed traverse down the south spur of the summit. It's 4th class but quite exposed and you won't see the 2-bolt anchor until you are almost at the end of the spur. A double-rope rappel reaches the ground, but an intermediate rap-station consisting of 3 fixed wires and an ugly rat's-nest of webbing will allow you to reach a saddle in two rappels. From the saddle, scramble down to the west where another short rappel from a 2-bolt anchor gets you to the ground. Follow the base of the cliff all the way back to start of the climb and regain the climber's-trail for the return.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sugarloaf:
North Face 5.6 R Trad, 9 pitches, 1800 feet, Grade III
This climb is described as a highly recommended Organ classic, and is a great way to reach the Sugarloaf summit, for a party that's up for climbing 5.10 slabs. Don't be discouraged by the 5.11 rating, the 5.11 crux is short, right at a bolt which you could easily aid off of to get through, or avoided altogether by poorly protected 5.9 friction traverse.Some, but not all, of the original 1/4" bolts have been replaced with modern 3/8" bolts, and a...[more]Browse More Classics in NM
To access Sugarloaf, and other east side routes, park at the Aguirre Spring Campground approximately 5 miles south of Highway 70 on Aguirre Spring Road. The gate is often locked until 8:00am. A pay station is located near a group campsite on the one-way loop road. Proceed to the second “group area” approximately 0.4 miles beyond the pay station. The Sugarloaf trail-head is located to the south of this “group area.”
From the parking lot, Sugarloaf is obscured by a large hill. The trail traverses the hill to the left. Find a gate south of the restrooms and follow the trail across the stream bed. It turns to the east after the stream bed (a common mistake is to walk up the stream bed). Traverse the large hill high along its base. Follow this trail for approximately one hour. If you encounter a fence, you are on the lower trail and should turn back to the correct trail.
After approximately one hour, the trail crosses a campsite. It is common to leave water here for the walk out. After a short level walk, the grade becomes steep. Just after the grade change, take a left fork and follow an obscure trail to the base of SL. Watch for snakes! The entire approach usually takes approximately 1.5 hours.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Oct 8, 2007
Next time I'd descend with 2 ropes down the south ridge of the summit to the saddle, as described above.
Various other options exist too, none this simple or good. I got down with 1 rope and some 5th class downclimbing, but it would have been more straightforward with two ropes; there's also an intermediate rat's nest anchor that would work with 1 rope. Supposedly you can also go down the East side with 1 rope... but the hike back would be longer.
By Aaron Hobson Administrator From: Las Cruces, NM Feb 6, 2008
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