The impressive and long North face of Sugarloaf attracts climbers like no other formation in the Organs. This route makes the most of the long continuous North face, climbing anywhere from 9-13 pitches to reach the summit (depending on how well you run-out your rope, and whether you know where the good belays are). Trying to describe each pitch in details not really in the spirit of the climb, as there are as many variations as pitches on this climb. some key landmarks to keep you on route though are key, as getting off-route on these hard-to-protect slabs can spell some bad situations.
The start is at the very base of the north slab apron. An easy pitch takes you up to the highest pine tree on this slab (1 rope length). From this pine tree, head straight up the slabs keeping an eye out for a 2-bolt anchor. Left of the anchor is a shallow bush-filled corner with another anchor at its top. Another pitch up from this gains a nice ledge beneath a clean right-facing corner (there is another 2-bolt anchor below this ledge and off to the west more). A few pitches up from this ledge gains a 5'-wide dike (more like a band of different colored rock which runs up the slabs.) Follow this rock-band for a pitch, then head towards a small roof/overlap slightly to the east, by following the giant chicken-heads. A full rope length past this and you're at the top. Route finding is key.
Location
The approach trail is in pretty good shape. The last 300m are hard to follow as the trail becomes a "climbers-trail", but when you get that close you can simply head to the lowest point on the north slabs. The descent requires an exposed traverse down the south spur of the summit. It's 4th class but quite exposed and you won't see the 2-bolt anchor until you are almost at the end of the spur. A double-rope rappel reaches the ground, but an intermediate rap-station consisting of 3 fixed wires and an ugly rat's-nest of webbing will allow you to reach a saddle in two rappels. From the saddle, scramble down to the west where another short rappel from a 2-bolt anchor gets you to the ground. Follow the base of the cliff all the way back to start of the climb and regain the climber's-trail for the return.
Protection
A small alpine rack consisting of wires and a few cams (.5-2")is all that is really needed. Small wires especially useful for finding that tiny placement in seams. A few more pieces won't hurt, but on many of the pitches you won't be placing much pro anyways. Expect 40'-60' run-outs, or more if you get off-route. Long runners and smart rope-management are a must.
Did this route with a guy from VA Tech named Chris who I had never climbed with before or since we did this route we had a major epic getting up and down this rte on a spring break.
I remember hearing stuff exploding over at White Sands and looking at the beautiful sands off to the east.
Starting from the large parking lot at Aguirre Springs Rec. area the hike in is ~2 miles with general uphill grade. I did it as a trail run a couple of months ago in ~45min out and ~25 min back (with breaks), but lugging gear in puts a reasonable time at about an hour and a half (going in) assuming you know the way.
I don't really know this for certain, but I assume the longer approach times come from cutting off the trail too low. You have to eventually turn left off the trail and cut up/over to the base of the climb, but the closer you are to the same level the easier and faster it is. There's a big cairn at a good turn off point. The last time I saw it there was a large yucca stalk sticking out of the center as well.
For the decent you can follow the rock back around to the base of climb if you left anything there (don't) or just stay in the drainage until you hit a trail (you will). It's the same trail you came in on, just further along from the cut off you should have taken.
Four hours is probably a decent estimate for total time spent going in and out.
It's definitely an awesome climb and well worth the full day it takes. Also, Lowell, great route photo. It's a good addition.
Sugarloaf
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