Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
this route appears quite straight-forward, but provides awkward stances under small overlaps which make placing gear sometimes strenuous. There are many good face holds that are not always immediately apparent, which tends to make the route feel stiff for the grade. The crux is under the right facing overlap.
There is some loose/suspect rock on this route.
Location
This route is located in an alcove on the west side of the South (Main) wall (about 100 ft west from Lowenbrau Light). The route starts up the left side of the alcove to the top of a small pillar. Directly above the pillar is the crux right facing overlap. After the crux, continue up crack systems keeping to the left to reach the summit ledge next to a Sotol bush. It is also possible to cross-over onto Miller High life which is immediately to the right.
Descent by scrambling up another 45ft to the chains of Irish Creme. 120' Two-rope rappel (can be accomplished with a single 60m and some easy down-climbing).
Protection
Standard rack. A lost-arrow piton is located below the crux. Build a gear belay at an obvious ledge with a Sotol bush, or continue up an easy scramble to the chains of Irish Creme.