BETA PHOTO: Scott Jones at the starting crux of the route.
Description
Start at the gnarly oak growing out og a ledge 10m high. This climb follows a crack system directly up the face from the gnarly oak. There are a few loose blocks on it that could be a problem, but otherwise it is an excellent route on good rock.
The crux is encountered only 10m from the first belay, at an awkward offwidth.
By Aaron Hobson Administrator From: Las Cruces, NM Jan 23, 2006
We did this route in one long pitch (~50m) and set up a belay on a comfortable ledge adjacent to the pitch2 belay ledge for Black Velvet. From here there are several variations for the finish. You can continue up on 5.7 or easier climbing to top. You could also head right toward the large roof and into a crack system which is rated 5.8. We were running out of time, and chose to scramble/down-climb left to the anchors at the rappel station at the top of Irish Creme. These anchors should be visible off to the left, and provide a quicker exit than continuing up another pitch and scrambling east to the rappel on Five Easy Steps.
Anchors at top of Irish Creme are about 120' to a ledge. It is possible to descend using a single 60m rope by easy down-climbing in a wide chimney.
Southern Comfort Wall
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