BETA PHOTO: The route takes the left side of the two prominent...
Description
You can't help but stare at this route as you approach the Middle Rabbit Ear from Rabbit Ears Canyon. The route follows a nearly direct ascent of the North Side of the West face, folloiwng a path of least resistance up corners, face climbing and slab.
Scramble up to a nice belay ledge about 50 ft above the canyon floor. This is 4th class, and there are multiple good places to belay from. The first pitch aims for a large left facing corner system. A few harder variations can be found getting into the corner, some of which may be poorly protected. Good route-finding sense is required if you want to keep this route in the 5.6 range. Belay at the top of the corner system on a comfortable ledge (~180ft depending on where you start).
The second pitch starts off climbing up and left from the belay ledge, into a good crack system. About half a rope-length up, you will be getting close to another large left-facing corner system. Steer to the left of this system, over some easy slab climbing and past a piton, until you reach a nice belay spot near the NW ridge. (~180 ft)
Pitch three continues trending left to a ledge right on the NW ridge with nice views through the Church-key. Climb up the ridge, past a piton making a tricky traversing move with good exposure. there are several nice ledges to choose from for setting up a belay. (~120 ft)
The last pitch follows any of several paths through blocks and slabs to the summit.
Protection
A light rack with plenty of long runners to reduce rope-drag. Aside from the two pitons, no fixed gear/anchors are found on this route.
Middle Rabbit Ear
RSS Feed
