Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Robert Machina looking down on the 2nd pitch belay...
Description
This climb has two worthy challenges: puzzling route-finding and variations for the first pitch, high exposure and some commiting moves up the second pitch.
The R&I topo shows the first pitch starting somewhere up on the low angled scramble beneath the descent gully. It depicts 5.5 climbing traversing in from the left on ledges. More direct variations work as well, but the protection can be tricky. There are many shallow corners with tight seams that can be followed, all of them relatively low-angled, but not always easily protectable. Aim for an old 1/4" bolt (which can be backed-up) which is shared by Wizard of Ooze. While that route traverses left here, this route tends right towards an obvious break in the roof above with a large block in front of it. Belay on top, or behind this block.
The second pitch takes a nice corner system up to the summit, and has some great exposure.
Location
Starts on the low-angle scrable beneath the descent gully. Head for the obvious break on the right side of the upper headwall. Descend as for Wizard of Ooze.
Protection
A standard rack will suffice, with an emphasis on tiny wires if you want to protect the thin seams on variations to the first pitch. A large fixed piton is passed 15 ft beneath the belay for the 2nd pitch. This could be used as an alternative belay for this route or Wizard of Ooze.
Lambda Wall
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