La Cueva as seen from the road, with the Organ Mou...
Description
This group of rock formations is the some of the closest climbing for the Las Cruces climber. The majority of climbs here are trad climbs but a handful of sport routes can be found. Rock quality is often quite poor, as are some of the old fixed anchors.
Cueva Rock is a historical site and climbers should be respectful of this fact. A hermit once lived in a cave under this formation, and should you visit this cave, your eyes will be drawn to the piton infested crack system that soars above the cave. This route is off-limits to climbing, due to its proximity to the historic cave, and to the tourist traffic that goes under the route. Climbing is not allowed in or around this area.
There is a $3/day parking fee, or you can get a years pass for $20.
Getting There
From Las Cruces, turn east onto University Ave which turns into Dripping Springs Rd. Follow this rd into the recreation area and turn left into La Cueva Picnic area. Check the park for hours.
Located on western end of the Shady North side of La Cueva, this climb is a wide chimney with three bolts in the upper section. Fairly straightforward and excellent climbing on solid rock....[more]
By Aaron Hobson Administrator From: Las Cruces, NM Jan 19, 2006
I'm posting information about La Cueva in the hopes of gathering more information about this area. The climbing record in the Las Cruces area seems to be rather difficult to come by. I have been climbing at La Cueva without knowing any information about any beta. I have dubbed routes with my own names for simplification. Otherwise, every route would be called, "Route #4 north face" or something like that.
If you have any issues with my posts, feel free to set me straight.
By Aaron Hobson Administrator From: Las Cruces, NM May 24, 2006
I've reorganized La Cueva into sunny and shady sides. This should also allow for expansion of the bouldering potential, and the eastern satelite formations.
Some of the other formations east of La Cueva have a few routes. I've seen a few old pitons and bolts there. I'll try to get some pics and routes up soon.
Cuevas has seen a lot of climbing over the years, probably at least since the late 1960s. I expect several of the newer bolted lines were older TRs.
The harder cracks were done on aid and many were freed later. Some of the strange old bolts in the area were used for rescue and belay practice. I will try to determine some of the older names.