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working the crack, right below the tri-cam. rope d...
Description
You can access the top rope anchors from Rotten Reality or you can free climb a 4th class Lichen face around the north corner and descend a shaky 15 feet to the crack. The bolts and hangers are old and rusty, I use them but don't trust them....Bad combo. I would back it up with some pro. Hopefully, this summer I can get some good bolts in for everyone. There is quite a bit of rope drag from the top rope, especially when you get close to the overhang. starting the route and the overhang are the 2 crux in the climb. with a 60m rope the climber and belayer have to get a boost to be roped in. Awesome route with some nice hand and finger jams. Get's mellow towards the end, nice way to in the climb and a fun free rappel back down!
Location
West of Rotten Reality in an area my brother and I have dubbed "The Basin". You cant miss this huge split up the rock. You can access it from the north trail, or bushwack a bit from the southern la cueva trail under a huge boulder. Awesome place to climb in summer, nice and cool.
Protection
2 old bolts are at the top of the route. about 20ft below, right above the overhand, is another old bolt. A good place to set an aider. right below the overhang above "the step" is a new bolt. On the step is an old piton. about 20-30 ft up is a jammed tri-cam, an old piton used to be right by it but i broke it in a fall. a good set of cams can easily do the trick. on the overhang, i could barely fit in a 0 cam and i wouldnt trust the rock in a fall.
Do NOT use the two anchors at the top of the route. They have quite a bit of shifting on the hangers. When I rebolt the route I'll post it. Should be perfect for Trad until then. Good luck!
This climb had two anchors in the old days. One on the ledge below the wide crack and one at the top. The bolts are more than 30 years old and should be replaced. We called this 5.9 and I am not sure why you gave the climb an R rating. The protection is reasonable.
I think I gave it an R for TR, trad is pretty safe. Like you said, those hangers are old. If the consensus is 5.9, I'll change it. feel free to vote. happy climbing!
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