Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
Charge into the depths of the squeeze chimney. Not as hard as it looks, although I find it difficult to rate squeeze chimneys. The crux is getting off the ground and into the squeeze. Some parts of the squeeze are smooth and dirty, others are gritty. there are a few great face holds in the squeeze but for the most part you will be inching your way upwards and trying to decide where you will least likely get stuck. There are two possible exits from the squeeze: 1) if you're small enough squeeze you're way under the giant chockstone at the top. 2) At the narrowest constriction about 5 ft below the giant chockstone, inch your way to the outside of the chimney. As the chimney widens, there are more foot holds.
Location
Hike almost all the way to the east end of the Shady Side and keep an eye out for a short, steep chimney. The route is the second chimney to the right of Monoculture.
Protection
A few big pieces are good to have, but you'll also be able to place some small gear, especially if you work your way in deep. I placed a yellow alien immediately after gaining the squeeze, and then a #4 forged friend before working my way to the outside of the chimney (exit strategy #2 above). there is a decent placement for a blue TCU before you gain the large chockstone. From here you can traverse to the right to a lone bolt and lower off (you'll have to leave something on the bolt), or you can continue up to the oak trees and rappel from them.
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