Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
Mostly a chimney climb, the crux is the first 15 ft where you stem up on good face holds before squeezing yourself into a narrow constriction. Wriggle your way through the constriction to a rest ledge. from here, the chimney opens up and contains more face holds, making it a bit easier to climb. The back of the crack is slightly dirty, especially after a rain as this is one of the run-off routes for the large ledge above.
Location
Located near the eastern end of the Shady Side, immediately to the right of Monoculture. The route finishes on a large ledge 50 ft up where two oaks provide a rappel.
Protection
A #2 camelot or equivalent protects the early crux. Large cams can be placed at various points on the short route, and there are a few placements for nuts/smaller cams. No fixed anchor so bring small nuts and cams to set one up.